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| I'd imagine a liking for walking goes hand in hand with
a passion for Golf, the two pass-times complimenting each other perfectly.
That's how I see angling and photography. For anybody that enjoys taking
pictures out of doors, angling offers the perfect partnership for opportunity. |
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Personally I initially developed an interest in photography solely for the purpose of recording my better fish captures. In other words, I was an angler first. Fairly early on I stumped up the cash for a moderately priced 35mm SLR outfit, a ‘proper' camera. A little Minolta X300, which served me faithfully for well over a decade before it died one day following a thermos flask break down in my fishing bag. I think if it hadn't have been immersed in coffee it would still be snapping away now. A great little camera! The change in quality of my fishing pictures, following the transition to more sophisticated 35mm equipment, was astounding. I quickly became interested in improving my technique and found the basic information easy to absorb from beginner's books. |
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Minolta X300 |
For me personally the interest has grown to the point where I enjoy taking photographs almost as much as catching fish. Be warned! Enthusiasm for photography can play absolute havoc with your bank balance! I'm always looking at venues nowadays, with half an eye cocked for a photo opportunity. Whether it's impressive Fungi or an obliging Robin, a colourful flower or simply an appealing vista. |
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On a personal note, I also happen to think it important that good photographers are encouraged in angling. After all we are recording the history of our sport. How dull would the works of Walker, Buller and the like be, if they'd had no pictures to accompany them? Good photographs can provide powerful reminders of your greatest days, or the beauty of the venues you've visited. Something to look back on in future years and an endless source of inspiration for those times when the odds seem stacked against you. Photography is one of those activities that are easily overlooked by people who shy away from technical subjects. It's not surprising really when you look at the entry level cameras that are available nowadays; and the seemingly endless functions they're capable of. Thankfully the truth is though, that it's actually a very simple concept. At it's most basic, a photograph (In terms of ‘film' cameras.) is the result of allowing light to fall through a pre-determined size of hole (the ‘aperture') onto a light reactive film for a controlled period of time. (The ‘shutter speed') Collectively, the result of balancing these three elements, film (speed), shutter speed and aperture, is called the ‘Exposure'. All that is really needed to take a perfect picture is an understanding of three key elements, which are framing, focusing and the aforementioned exposure. Framing simply refers to positioning the camera to include what you wish to see in the finished picture and focusing obviously means adjusting the camera lens in order to bring the picture subject into sharp detail. There's not a great deal to be said about these two elements of the hobby other than ‘practise makes perfect.' Exposure will determine the colours and tones in the resulting photograph and is arguably the most difficult part of the photography process to get consistently right. The light meters on modern cameras will
ensure you have an adequate exposure in most situations. Putting the
camera in ‘programme' mode largely takes away the need for the photographer
to choose an exposure. However for certain situations the camera meter
will be fooled and the photograph will be poor as a result. In these
situations you will need to put the camera into ‘manual' mode and take
control of the exposure yourself if you wish to improve the picture
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Of course in order to make that decision
to shoot in manual mode, you need to recognise the circumstances that
can lead to a poor exposure. In terms of fishing, and particularly with
pike, and to a lesser extent Zander, there is one common factor that
will frequently lead to poor quality pictures. That is the difference
in tone between the fish’s belly, and its back. To appreciate the
impact of this factor it is necessary to have an understanding of why
it should cause problems for the on board camera meter.
Light meters basically assess the picture in front of them in respect
of the balance of tones. Both the shadow areas, and the lighter areas.
The meter assesses the amount of dark and light and gives an average
exposure reading. However this can be an entirely unsatisfactory value
for pictures of high contrast. If no change is made, i.e the photographer
sets the camera to manual mode and alters the exposure settings, the
picture will be returned from the lab with typically, either the lighter
parts of the picture ‘burnt out’, or the darker parts of
the photograph in total blackness. |
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Contrast is at it's widest in brighter conditions and so a pike picture taken in sunny conditions, for instance, will very often have a bleached out look to it. Even otherwise perfect shots can be tarnished by this factor. Indeed many of the pictures of pike we see are fine except for a slightly washed out look to the pike's belly. Sadly in some instances it is virtually unavoidable. However many of these photographs could have been dramatically improved, had the photographer realised or recognised that the lighting was bad. The simplest way to lessen the impact of a bright overhead light source (the sun) is to position the angler so as to create shade over the fish. With careful thought, before taking the picture, you can address most bright adverse lighting situations, at least to some degree, by positioning the subject. Choosing an even background, against which to photograph the fish, will help to lessen the likelihood of your camera meter being tricked. Foliage or brush is often close to the ‘mid tone' in outdoor pictures, so filling the cameras view (In other words making it the background to your trophy shot.) with bushes, trees tall reeds etc. will increase the chances of the meter correctly assessing the exposure. |
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| An even better option,
if you have it, is to lessen the contrast with the use of flash. Many
modern cameras have a small onboard flash specifically for this purpose.
The technique is known as, ‘fill in
flash'. And that is exactly what it does, i.e it fills in some of the
shadowy areas with light |
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You may still encounter a little washed out look to the pike's belly though, the difference in tone between its bottle green back and its virtually white stomach can be just too much for the ‘exposure latitude' of the film. Put simply it means the film is incapable of producing an accurate exposure of the ‘white belly' while at the same time correctly exposing the ‘dark back' or visa versa. Short of carrying an onboard camera crew, complete with individual shades and reflectors, there's little that can be done in these situations. Deliberately choosing a low contrast film at the outset will help. Another technique, that may give an acceptable exposure and which is well worth practising as a given, is that of ‘bracketing' exposures. Most cameras will have the facility to bracket shots as a dial in function nowadays. What you are doing in effect is hedging your bets. Alongside the exposure suggested by the onboard camera meter shots are also taken, typically a third or half of a stop under and over that exposure.
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If you really want
to improve your photographs, it's essential that you try and record
all the relevant details for each photograph. Not always easy when
you are shaking from adrenaline, having just landed a lump and keen
to get her back in the drink. Essential though, if you want to learn
the individual nuances of your camera meter. Gaining experience with
a camera is something best done away from the riverbank. That way the
process will be carried out quickly and confidently when that kipper
is on the bank! |
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Of course with the advent of digital cameras, much of the onus is being taken away from the picture taker. For a start you can make any obviously needed adjustments while taking the photographs. Secondly a good ‘Photoshop' manipulator will be able to tidy up imperfect images on their computer. Unless you are very affluent though, the cost of the cameras and peripherals is still astronomically high for good quality kit. Whereas there are increasingly attractive second hand opportunities for higher specification film or ‘emulsion' cameras. Nether-the-less the logical choice for the angler, should he or she be able to afford it, is likely to be that of digital equipment. Whatever type of camera you choose, I'd urge you not to leave it gathering dust in your tackle bag. When the fishing is slow and that kingfisher keeps landing nearby, or the light is spectacular on those bank-side poppies, rattle off a few shots. Capturing the essence of the secret world we enter into as anglers can go a long way towards lessening the impact of a blank day on the bank. By freezing that kaleidoscope sunset in a couple of frames you can at least say you've captured something that day. Happy snapping! Chris Hammond |
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| Below are more examples of Chris Hammond's photography |
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